Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these narratives and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
